Morning Light Mount St. Helens is an icon of the Pacific Northwest. Its eruption in May 1980 blew over 1,300' off its top, the collapsing north flank burying lakes, streams and valleys in debris up to 500' deep, and pristine forests reduced to splintered kindling for miles. When the air finally cleared, the scene around Mount St. Helens had been dramatically changed. What used to be a picture-perfect, glacier-topped mountain was now a deep, steaming crater, surrounded by a barren moonscape of rock and ash. The mountain continued to erupt - though not as catastrophically - for years following, with a new lava dome growing in the mile-wide crater. It wasn't until July of 2006 that Mount St. Helens was reopened for hiking to the rim, after being closed for a several-year period during a time of dome-building within the crater. There are only two routes to the crater rim, the Butte Rock trail via Redrock Pass (this route is only recommended when snow-covered), or the more popular route up Monitor Ridge via Climber's Bivouac on the south flank. Either route requires a permit to be above 4,800'. These can be obtained through the Mount St. Helens Institute (info and links below). Ridge Climbers Don't be fooled by the easy beginning at the Climber's Bivouac trailhead, as the route meanders gradually uphill towards timberline. In this first two miles, you'll pass the Loowit Trail crossing, and will only gain 1,000' of elevation. When you finally break clear of forest and view Monitor Ridge for the first time, you'll only then realize what you've gotten yourself into. For the next 1.5 miles, you'll be climbing, scrambling and rock-hopping up and over lava boulders, following the post markers along the spine of the ridge, looking for any semblance of smooth trail possible. There are no cairns along the way, marking the easiest path, only the wooden posts to keep you on track. Going up the first half of the ridge, there are sections of faint trail to follow on the west side of the ridge; the second, steeper half of the ridge, going up several large "steps" in the lava, you're on your own. Here's where you'll pass one of the seismic monitors on "Monitor" Ridge. On busy summer weekends, its possible to observe and choose your route by watching other climbers. On less-crowded weekdays, you might be on your own. Look for boot prints in the sand between bouldery sections, and don't stray too far from the ridgeline posts. If you're climbing in early season, look for a track going up the snowfield to the west of the ridge. Crampons and ice axe would be recommended for this kind of travel. Rim Sighting Once you've achieved the top of the ridge, do yourself a favor and give your legs a momentary break. If the day is clear, find a nice rock - there's plenty! - sit, and enjoy the view. To give this hike, er, climb, a little perspective, it's roughly the equivalent of climbing out of the Grand Canyon - from river to rim - in half the distance of the Bright Angel Trail. But doing so on no trail at all. Have a snack and give yourself a few moments to recharge - the next mile to the rim is going to suck. As you set out for the final push to the top, a few tracked, rocky switchbacks offer hope of an easier go. No such luck, and at this point the rim looks so deceptively close. Soon enough, the "trail" simply climbs straight up the side of the mountain, through loose ash, sand and volcanic gravel. Here's where you praise the gaiters you were wise enough to wear. Its a tough slog, up a slope reaching upwards of 35º of incline. It's not uncommon to see people turning around here, exhausted, dehydrated, sunburned, bested not so much by the elevation, but by the elements - sun, wind, maybe rain or snow. With perseverance though, the goal can be attained, and before you know it, you're standing on the rim, gazing 2,000' down into the steaming crater, and outwards endless miles over the Washington and Oregon Cascades. Well done. At the Top If time and weather permits, enjoy your accomplishment and spend some time on the rim. Take in the grandness of Mt. Rainier's massive presence a mere XX miles away. Pick out all of southern Washington and northern Oregon's named peaks. Observe the newly forming lava dome within the crater, watching and listening for the crack and rumble of rockfall as it continues to grow. Use absolute caution though, as the rim is loose and unstable, and avoid walking out on snow cornices. It's a long, likely fatal fall into the crater. When you've had your fill and are ready to head back down, take your time - going up was only the first half of the effort. Descending the steep, sandy slope can be slippery. When you've reached the lava ridge again, chances are you won't be following your same path down, unless you have a photographic memory. Again, look for heavily traveled sections, or follow others, keeping the guide posts as your reference. Don't rush, a stumble or fall on the sharp lava rock hurts. Once you've descended the several "steps," passed the seismic monitor, and are starting to level a bit, look again for the faint trail on the west side of the ridge. Here, if your knees aren't totally blown, you can pick up the pace some. Pass XXX, and spot the end of the ridge and timberline where you'll once again be on normal trail, and make quick work of the two miles back to your starting point, congratulating yourself on your achievement. This is no lightweight hike - go prepared. Dress in layers, appropriate for any weather condition, even in summer. Take eye protection for blowing ash and grit, like wraparound sunglasses or goggles. You might also want to carry a bandana for nose and mouth in case its really windy. Wear a hat, and don't forget the sunscreen, even on cloudy days! Some of the worst injuries I hear about from this hike are extreme sunburns. Stay hydrated by carrying at least 3 liters of water or sports drink, as there's no water on the trail. A few other suggested items would be gaiters to keep the sand and pebbles out of your boots, and trekking poles are highly recommended to help you traverse all the large steps over the rough terrain, and offer stability on the loose slopes. Permits for summer weekends are snatched up pretty quickly, and trailhead parking can be an issue. Consider hiking on a weekday for much less crowding. See the image gallery from my recent climb. See a GPS track, map and elevation profile for this hike at Backpacker.com. - Coming Soon! Get climbing info and permit applications at the Mount St. Helens Institute. Get updated trail conditions at the Gifford Pinchot Nat'l Forest website.