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Oregon: John Day Fossil Beds NM – Blue Basin
by Eli Boschetto
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 Turtle Cove |
Near the junction of Hwys 26 and 19, just north of Picture Gorge, is the John Day Fossil Beds' Thomas Condon Paleontology Center. A working research facility, it also houses public displays of the geologic history and fossil discoveries of Central Oregon. Definitely worth a visit. Two miles farther north is the Blue Basin, a canyon of erosion-sculpted, 29-million-year-old welded blue-green volcanic tuff. Summer temperatures here can be brutal. There is little shade, and the interior of the canyon is casually referred to by the local rangers as a “clay oven,” with temps 20º higher than the surrounding area. Plan this hike in the early morning or later evening, or try the cooler months of spring or fall.
 Blue Basin |
There are two trails that explore the area, the Overlook and the Island in Time. Both are recommended. Start at the trailhead clockwise with the 3-mile Overlook trail, which winds around the north backside of the canyon. Keep your eyes peeled for rattlesnakes – they’re here! As you approach Turtle Cove, several outcrops of blue-green rock becomes visible in impressive formations. The trail starts a steady but not difficult climb to the rim in long switchbacks. Occasional juniper trees offer small patches of shade from the beating sun. About half way up the trail, a small shaded bench offers a break from the climb and impressive views over the surrounding area, including a grouping of bright red claystone hills to the northeast. At the top of the rim, the view into the canyon is like looking down on an alien world of erosion-sculpted aqua-colored formations. Another small bench offers a place to sit and ponder a world that once was.
 Island Trail |
Continue traveling the rim circuit down the switchbacks on the south side, enjoying more impressive views into the basin and surrounding landscape, to the junction with the Island in Time trail. From here, descend directly into a prehistoric landscape on a gently winding half-mile trail into the blue-green canyon. Along the way, several on-location displays of fossils discovered in the area – tortoises, oreodonts, and saber-toothed cats – can be viewed with interpretive signs explaining their paleontological significance. The trail ends at the back of the canyon, in an ampitheater of colorful, sculpted stone. Exit the canyon by backtracking to the previous junction, then turn right, continuing the loop back to the trailhead. If time is an issue, skip the Overlook trail and turn right at the trailhead and head for the Island in Time.
Image gallery More info: nps.gov/joda See a GPS track of this hike at Backpacker.com (coming soon!)
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